#The_Notebook_2

-
Today, I think I'll write another draft for a surfing essay instead of doing a writing exercise.



At first, the waves are incomprehensible. Going into the ocean is like exploring the unknown, walking through the jungle or entering a foreign galaxy. I fall. However, I gradually learn the laws of physics. I see the physics in waves, and understand that there is logic in them. Now understanding, I let myself ride the waves in harmony. I do not conquer the waves, but follow their rhythm. We coexist in harmony. The important thing: I enjoy the whole process. Happy, I decide to move to a new surf spot next time. And repeat the same process.


 When I looked over my shoulder, or rather, peaked through dripping seaweed hair, the wave's crest was the darkest I had ever seen.
Read the waves.
As Jon Kabat-Zinn said, "You can't stop the waves, but you can learn to surf."

notes:

hit the water

crucial moment
pivot your board in the same direction of the wave
and paddle to match its speed
board creates an angle with the water
creates a dynamic force
increased forward momentum makes you more stable
stable
fins allow to alter your speed and change position

crest
water particles in creates acceleration.
shoot ahead before crashing

curl completely enclose, creates barrel

irregularity of swell and bottom contour


time passing differently inside

refract waves, concentrating energy
waves travel more than a week, for 1000 kilometers
tectonic geology, fluid mechanics

waves one visible part of the continuous oscillation of energy

fun and sun

"Then, after I've gotten rid of Batman and Robin for good, I will rule the waves. Me, the Joker, king of the surf and all the surfers. Then, Gotham City! Later, the world!"
~ The Joker, Batman season 3


learn to read waves

get in and wrestle with the sea

"Go strip off your clothes that are a nuisance in this mellow clime. Get in and wrestle with the sea; wing your heels with the skill and power that reside in you, hit the sea's breakers, master them, and ride upon their backs as a king should."
~ Jack London



Comments

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

Review on Arkangel, Black Mirror

-
Image
Review on Arkangel,  Black  Mirror As a young child, Sara has grown up with a child monitoring system implanted in her head. With a tablet, Sara's mother can find the geolocation of child, see what Sara is seeing, and blur out disturbing images. This difference in growing up caused Sara to be emotionally immature and socially outcast in school. Another problem is that Sara learns violence, illness, and sex only at a late age. While it is natural for her to be curious of obscenities, she harms herself because she did not have the awareness that she should have achieved through early exposure (not pleasant but necessary). For instance, Sara cuts herself because she does not know pain or violence. She only knows the concept, and she harms herself because she never had the chance to fully realize what violence is, and why she should avoid it. When Sara has a sexual relationship with Trick, she mimics the actor she saw on internet pornography, because that was the first way she e
Read more

Big Graduation Mischief

-
All is dark in the cold night of Hoengseong. The wind is rushing through the snow-covered mountains. In the middle of the mountain lies Korean Minjok Leadership Academy (a.k.a KMLA), isolated. On the top floor of KMLA’s dormitory building, a single dim light is seeping out into the night. It is coming from a dark storage room of the school cafeteria, where twelve students are huddled up, whispering. There was a knock on the door. Everyone flinched- except for Summer, who scuttled to hide behind the shelf of tuna cans. “ It ’ s me ” , whispered Blake, peeking into the dark room. The dead quite room was now filled with sighs of relief. “ You ’ re late, Mr. Class President”, Seolin accused.   " Sorry, I just came back from the basketball competition- did I miss something? ” “ The morning assembly had been a chaos. They banned our graduation!” “…and so, we’re planning an escape” added Brian. “Here, come on in”, said Jihyun, handing Blake a shabby scroll of paper.
Read more

Self Reflection Essay: To kill a bee – first aid kit

-
Image
To kill a bee – first aid kit     As a young child, I watched a television program named “Go Diego Go!”. The main character of the animation was Diego, a young adventurer of the jungles. He used a special bag filled with supplies and food used to rescue wild animals. Quickly, Diego and his rescue kit became my hero.   Watching the animation, my younger brother and I started having little expeditions of our own. Our favorite pastime was to go outside to the playground or the woods, searching for animals and insects that needed our help. We also bought a plastic pill container from the town grocery store and named it our first aid kit. We filled the kit with sugar, salt, water, oats, and honey nicked from the kitchen.   With our small first aid kit, we fed birds, located stray cats, and especially, tried to save dying bees. In certain times of the year, bees were frequently spotted in our playground, laboriously fluttering for their last flight home. Nature
Read more